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Calvi

 
Calvi, La Balagne, Corsica
Calvi, La Balagne, Corsica (Click Image to Close)
 
 
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Imagine the perfect “picture postcard” Mediterranean; a colourful array of buildings, cobbled streets climbing up to a Genoese Citadel, harbour-side cafés and restaurants, and a pine fringed crescent of silver sand stretching as far as the eye can see. This is Calvi.

A busy port during the Roman era, Calvi takes its name from the Calvus – ‘bald’ rock that would come to form the foundations of the Citadel. Standing proud on its headland, any visitor to Calvi must visit this thirteenth century fortress, which has lost none of its fascination over the centuries, and remains a remarkable example of architectural and cultural heritage. Within the walls you’ll find cobbled passages tightly packed with houses, dominated by the Cathédrale Saint Jean-Baptiste, which stands at the highest point of the Citadel. Every week here there are concerts of “Chansons polyphoniques”, Corsican polyphonic singing. The best way to see the rest of the Citadel is to simply follow the ramparts, which offer some magnificent views across the bay to the mountains of the Balagne.

It is also reputedly the birthplace of Christopher Columbus, born during the Genoese occupation of the town, and the remains of his house can still be seen today, commemorated by a plaque in the Citadel and statues scattered throughout the town.

The Citadel itself is a magnificent backdrop for the red-tiled town below, with its palm tree-planted harbour and lively restaurants lining the promenade. Quai Landry links the marina and the port, populated by bustling bars and cafés, this is the best place to get a feel for the town and watch the world go by. Past the promenade, a glorious pine forest – la Pinède – stretches along the six kilometres of gently shelving beach bordering Calvi bay, underlining the frontier between land and sea.

During the height of the summer season, Calvi sports a lively atmosphere at nighttime, with an array of quayside cafés, restaurants and a few clubs. The established piano bar “Chez Tao” is not to be missed; set in the Citadel, it’s often open until dawn, music drifting out over the bay until sunrise. In recent years Calvi has reinvented itself as Corsica’s capital of culture. The town plays host to many music festivals during the summer including the “Jazz Festival” in June and “Calvi on the Rocks” in July. An impressive art exhibition also takes place in the Citadel from June to September. Whether you are meandering along the old cobbled streets of the Citadel or having a drink in a café on the Quai Landry, Calvi will leave you refreshed and inspired to see more of this beautiful island.   

Things to See & Do 

  • Explore the streets of Calvi town and the majestic Citadel – If you don’t mind the climb to the top through the cobbled streets and narrow alleyways, then a visit to the Citadel is a must during your holiday. From here, the views across the bay to the mountains are magnificent.
  • Perched high above Calvi Notre Dame de la Serra is a must for energetic (you can take the car) music lovers, walk up to Notre Dame de la Serra to listen to the violinist playing in the chapel. At 216m above Calvi, you will also be rewarded with fabulous views across the bay below and don’t forget to take water, a hat and sun cream. 
  • Take a boat or catamaran trip from Calvi harbour to nearby creeks and scenic bays, and discover the natural beauty of Corsica from the sea. There are trips from the Quai Landry to the Scandola Nature Reserve, a UNESCO World Heritage site, where red granite cliffs plunge into the transparent sea.
  • Calvi to l’Ile Rousse and beyond by train is a fantastic train journey will take you along the beautiful coast to L’Ile Rousse and then head to the hills- the perfect option for beach hopping or for exploring! The line is payable in sections with stops at the beaches and villages of the coast including stations along Calvi beach and in the heart of town.  This coastline is home to some of the best beaches on the island (see Beaches section) and can be explored by the small train. Beyond Ile Rousse, at the foot of the charming Reginu valley, is the beach of Lozari, a long curved bay with coarse sand, clean sea and very little development. Further still is the beach at Ostriconi - fine sand and totally unspoilt, but difficult to get to, necessitating quite a lengthy walk from the campsite to reach it.
  • Algajola is a small, ancient fishing village that during the 1570’s, was the home to the Bishop of Corsica, whilst he spread the good word throughout La Balagne.  He was attacked in the church whilst trying to break up a fight that had erupted and the villagers awaited divine retribution.  They believed this had come in 1643 when pirates destroyed Algajola.  The village was rebuilt the following year by the Genoese and today the excellent sandy beach and atmospheric Citadel provide an ideal setting in which to relax and unwind.
  • Wander the streets of Ile Rousse old town and take a make sure you take a trip to the market held every morning in a majestic covered market place. The produce is local and fresh and includes fish, vegetables, local honey, charcuterie and cheeses. There are ample restaurants to choose from in the narrow streets and around the main square beneath the plane trees and the silver sand of Ile Rousse beach is very tempting. For the young or the old take a trip on 'Le Petit Train' a tourist train of Ile Rousse which will show you the sites at a leisurely pace.
  • The fortress villages of the Haute-Balagne perched high above the sea and surrounded by terraces that produced olives, wine and figs together with plentiful citrus groves are some of the most picturesque on the island.  Backed by the dramatic mountain landscapes, many of the villages are nearly a thousand years old.  A recent government redevelopment programme has encouraged young people to settle in the villages and preserve the traditional practices resulting in the Strada di L’Artigiani, the Artisans route; a craft trail where you can visit workshops and buy the wares of the local artists. Take a coach trip for half a day around the old Balagne villages, or take a full day to travel a little further afield or if you have a car do the tour yourselves at your own pace.
  • Calenzana is the start of the famous GR20.  There are two impressive churches, an atmospheric square with a bar and two restaurants, and if you wander through the back streets you will come across L’Atelier du Village where you can buy jams, biscuits, liqueurs and cakes made from local produce.
  • Zilia is a photogenic village surrounded by olive groves.  Visit the vineyard of Alzipratu and taste their celebrated wines.
  • Perched on a rocky pinnacle overlooking the plain across to Calvi, Montemaggiore is characterized by fountains, arcaded houses and ancient streets.
  • Sant’Antonino, the oldest inhabited village on Corsica, is perched on a granite hilltop.  It is essentially pedestrian due to its vaulted archways and cobbled streets although the other way to explore the village is by mule - the traditional form of transport.  The village affords 360° views of the surrounding countryside and coast, has several restaurants, a local produce shop and the famous ‘maison du citron’ (run by Mr Antonino), which serves excellent citron pressé.
  • The centre of the project to redevelop village life. Pigna is a compact cluster of orange roofs and blue shutters and a good place to get a feel of the traditional culture of Corsica.  There are potters, painters, music box makers, musicians and jewellery craftsmen all based here.  The celebrated Casa Musicale is here and every Saturday and Tuesday during the season, Festivoce organize Corsican music concerts.  There is also the recently finished oratorium which hosts many of the Corsican musicians who tour the island during July and August.  The Casa Musicale also has an excellent restaurant and there is also a wonderful little organic Tapas bar whose terrace has stunning views.
  • Monticello is the village where it is believed that Christopher Columbus' mysterious mother was born. The village has a couple of charming restaurants and sports facilities. Why not go pony trekking through the Balagne hills to discover the area’s true natural beauty.
  • Accessible from anywhere in La Balagne, the Tartagine Forest is a fantastic area of wild countryside in Corsica’s National Park region.  Escape to the mountains and sit by snow fed rivers rushing over granite boulders surrounded by pine trees.  Your route takes you through Speloncato, via the old chestnut woods of the Guinssani, where you can stop at the memorable Genoese church, and admire the panoramic view of the valley.   As the road is winding and narrow, the trip will take you longer than expected from the map, so either take a picnic (there are few other visitors) or visit one of the local Auberges in Olmi Cappella, Pioggiola or on the Col de Battaglia.
  • At the very end of the Calvi airport road the Bonifatu Forest is a haven of cool and shade during the heat of the summer.  There are a plethora of picnic spots, rock pools and walks of all levels.  For an easy two hour circuit try the Boucle de Figajola, or for a more strenuous climb hike up to one of the GR20 refuges at Carozzu (where there is also a fantastic mountain top rock pool).  During the season, the car park charges a flat fee for the whole day approx €2) which helps to finance the Office National des Forêts protection scheme.  The Maison Forestière, in the car park serves drinks and has a simple menu.
  • Scandola National Park is stacked slabs, towering pinnacles and gnarled, claw-like outcrops of rock  which were formed by volcanic eruptions 250 million years ago and subsequent erosion has fashioned spectacular shapes in the rock.  The colours are remarkable and vary from charcoal grey to incandescent reds and rusty purples which strike a vivid contrast with the deep green maquis and the cobalt blue sea. The headland and its surrounding waters were declared a nature reserve in 1975, so wildlife is as varied here as anywhere in Corsica.  Dolphins and seals thrive, and colonies of giant gulls and cormorants inhabit the cliffs.  Ospreys are found here, their huge nests visible from the sea and there are regular sightings of Peregrine falcons.  Rare indigenous plants grow freely, but as the entire reserve is off limits to hikers, flora spotters are deprived the chance to further investigate.
  • Le Parc de Saleccia is a must for garden lovers! The park has a wide range of Mediterranean plants and is great to explore.
 
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