Destination Guide

Things to Do & See in the Gulfs of the West Coast

Piana and The Calanches

The coast of the Gulf of Porto is one of Corsica's most famous landscapes. The pinnacles and ravines of the red granite Calanches soar out of beautiful blue seas framed by the jagged peaks of Paglia Orba. They are best explored by foot or by boat. There are daily boat trips from Porto that visit this UNESCO world heritage site. Porto is hidden at the end of the gulf, and although deprived of the best views, it is well placed for exploring and has plenty of amenities. The Route de la Marine, lined with stately old eucalyptus trees, links the two parts of the resort. A strip of supermarkets, cafés and hotels is at one end of the village but the focus of activity is in the marina. Amongst other amenities there is a well established aquarium and a helpful tourist office. Piana is balanced on plunging cliffs and despite its prime location overlooking the Calanches, it retains its sleepy feel and does not suffer the crowds of tourists. It comprises of a cluster of old stone houses arranged around an 18th century church and square, from the edge of which the views over the gulf are sublime.

Scandola

Stacked slabs, towering pinnacles and gnarled, claw-like outcrops of rock were formed by volcanic eruptions 250 million years ago and a subsequent erosion has fashioned spectacular shapes in the rock. The colours are remarkable and vary from charcoal grey to incandescent reds and rusty purples which strike a vivid contrast with the deep green maquis and the cobalt blue sea. The headland and its surrounding waters were declared a nature reserve in 1975, so wildlife is as varied here as anywhere in Corsica. Dolphins and seals thrive, and colonies of giant gulls and cormorants inhabit the cliffs. Ospreys are found here, their huge nests visible from the sea and there are regular sightings of Peregrine falcons. Rare indigenous plants grow freely, but as the entire reserve is off limits to hikers, flora spotters are deprived the chance to further investigate. Take the Columbo Line boat from Porto as daily scheduled trips visit the region. See the tourist office for details.

The Spelunca Gorges & Evisa

The Spelunca Gorge spans 2km between the villages of Ota and Evisa and is a formidable sight with its bare granite walls. 1000m high in places it plunges into the green torrent of the confluence of rivers Porto, Tavulella, Onca, Campi and Aitone. The most dramatic views are seen from the road but the valleys and riverbanks are best explored on foot. Evisa is set in lush chestnut forests on the eastern side of the gorge and due to its attraction for walkers has several lunch stops, ranging from modest pizzerias to gastronomic offerings. Northeast of Evisa is the Forest of Aitone, home to thousands of Lariccio pines, some as high as 50m. Human disturbance is not yet great enough here to upset the ecosystems and it is a great region for wildlife; wild boar and stoats thrive here. Mouflon are often seen and the rare savage cat ghjattu volpe is found. Bird watchers are in paradise often spotting eagles, goshawks, sparrow-hawks and the Corsican nuthatch. There are several walks marked from the road and numerous rock pools for bathing (look out for the signs for piscine naturelle).

Vico and The Gorges of Liamone

Vico is one of the remoter outposts of Corsica and crouches in the mountains 15km northeast of Sagone. To the north, Col de Sevi provides fine views across the mountains, or strike east and visit the thermal springs at Guagno-les-bains. The more adventurous can continue further along this way to the hamlets of Soccia and Orto perched on a ledge in front of the crags of Monte St Eliseo. From Vico, the D1 travels south following the Rivière Liamone for 7km. The Gorge is a gloriously remote landscape of sweeping valleys shrouded in chestnut trees and framed by shadowy ridges covered in patches of deep maquis. Wild pigs roam freely until the village of Arbori, an exquisite collection of russet buildings strung out on a ledge overhanging the valley. Don't miss the convent of St Francois, a great white building encircled by vivid green woods and gardens. Continue south and you arrive at the wine producing Cinarca region. Walkers should not miss the hike to the Lac de Creno.

Cargese and Gulf of Sagone

Cargese is at the northernmost tip of the bay and is a charming cliff top village with an unusual history and ancestry linked to the Greek Peloponnese. Even today there are both Catholic and Greek Orthodox churches although both are presided over by the same minister. The whole Gulf of Sagone (Corsica's largest gulf) is characterized by long curves of sandy beaches stretching 40km from Capo di Feno up to the Punto di Cargese. Sagone is further south and thrives as a watersports centre whilst Tiuccia is tucked into the Gulf of Liscia at the easternmost indent and has a trio of minor historic sights. Two 17th century Genoese watchtowers and the other, the ruined Castellu di Capraja. It is the most sheltered spot and has a fine golden beach.

Cinarca circuit

The Cinarca forms the hinterland of the Gulf of Sagone and the region is well known today for its AOC wines, produced near the banks of the River Liscia. A pleasant circuit to drive would pass through Calcataggio enroute to the chief village of the region, Sari d'Orcino. From here continue through the villages of Casaglione and Ambiegna before returning to the coast road. Calcataggio provides a typical scene of the area with its bleached houses rising from a jungle of vineyards and orchards. The terraced hillside boasts a pleasant view of the cobalt blue Gulf of Liscia, and more marvellous views reward those who travel 1km beyond the village and turn right along the D101 into the lush Liscia valley. Passing through the hamlets of Sant'Andrea d'Orcino and Canelle, the road threads its way up towards Sari D'Orcino, a village composed of two hamlets stacked on the mountainside. Further north, the D1 skirts a high rocky wall for 3km until arriving at Ambiegna, an elegant village bordering the Liamone valley and a soaring pinewood. Head south along the D25 for 3km to Casaglione, an ancient cluster of silver stone buildings grouped around a church and then gently meanders back down towards the coast.

Ajaccio and Iles des Sanguinaires

The capital city Ajaccio is the largest town on the island, the site of the Corsican National Assembly and the birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte. It is an attractive town with an exceptionally mild climate and boasts a wealth of cafés, restaurants and chic shops. The old town is especially charming with a cluster of ancient streets spreading north and south of the Place Foch, which opens out onto the seafront by the old port. The Place de Gaulle forms the town center. Following on from this is the Cours Napoleon, lined with chic boutiques and brasseries, and running parallel to the beach for almost 2km. There are plenty of places to visit including Napoleon's house (Maison Bonaparte), Musée Capitellu, the Citadel and Musée Fesch. There is also a local produce market held every morning Mon-Sat at Place Cesar-Campinchi providing an ideal scene to capture the essence of local life as you watch the world go by. The sea front promenade along the Route des Sanguinaires is a pleasant place to stroll and leads to some lovely beaches, the least crowded being the furthest along. The Nave Va company run boat trips from the old port near the Citadel out to these islands, as well as further afield (Bonifacio, Porto and the Calanches).

Châteaux

Northwest of Ajaccio is the nearest of the Bonaparte family's country houses. Les Millelli is a stolid plain 18th century building with a wonderful terraced olive grove that overlooks the gulf (great for picnics). There are other châteaux ruins further along.

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