Paoli returned in 1790 and, with British backing, declared independence from France; Nelson lost his eye at the siege of Calvi and British forces captured a number of coastal towns. Independence was short-lived though; the British withdrew in 1796, Paoli departed to live in London and Napoleon (who was born in Ajaccio) moved in his army. Corsica has been a department of France ever since.
Compared with mainland France, Corsica is very sparsely populated. None of the towns on the island is large; even the capital, Ajaccio, has a population of only 55,000. Corsican families retain close links to their land, which is the main reason why the island has escaped mass exploitation despite some recent building; many people will never sell their inheritance for development.
Corsicans are proud of their heritage. France is referred to as "le continent," and attempts by outsiders to make a fast buck out of the island are resented. Nationalist sentiment is rooted in a deep personal love for Corsica and is expressed, at different levels, through the teaching of Corsican language (Corsu) in schools, or through daubing FLNC (Front de la Libération Nationale de la Corse) slogans on public signs and buildings.
Many Corsicans of all ages speak Corsican, a language whose history is obscure. Written, it looks rather like Italian, though it sounds different to the ear. Many names are Italian in form, with some pronounced the Italian way, some the French way. Corsican music is also resurgent; in recent years musicians have fused modern melodies with traditional vernacular songs or church chants to create an evocative, contemporary folk music.
The Moor's Head
The Moors Head has become the emblem of Corsica and can be seen on flags throughout the island. Any locally produced goods, official buildings, Corsican owned boats, properties and aircraft carry this symbol and all Corsican political parties (whatever the strength of their Nationalist tendencies) also use the emblem. In some specific cases it may represent a stronger Nationalist/Autonomist leaning, but is generally a simple statement of pride in their country.
The symbol dates back to the 13th century, when the Aragonese were given rights over Corsica by the Pope after their victory over the Saracens. They portrayed their acquisition by the Moor's Head. It was however, forgotten in Corsica during the subsequent Genoese occupation when the Virgin Mary (the patron Saint of Corsica) was used to symbolise Corsica.
In the 18th century the German adventurer, Theodor Von Neuhof (who became king of Corsica for 6 months in 1736) chose the forgotten Moor's Head as the National flag. Twenty years later it was re-established as the official Corsican flag by the great Corsican patriot, Pascal Paoli who insisted that the bandana was moved from its original position covering the eyes (to the forehead) in order to symbolise the liberation of Corsica.