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Villages of La Balagne

 
Villages of La Balagne, La Balagne, Corsica
Villages of La Balagne, La Balagne, Corsica (Click Image to Close)
 
 

Honey hued villages with real Corsican character cling to the mountains of La Balagne.

Towering above the coast, the villages have little changed over the centuries and you will experience a way of life that is essentially Corsican.

Village life is at a slower pace, and is ideal for those looking to get away from the hustle and bustle of 21st century life, whilst still being just a short drive from the Balagne's beaches

Things to See & Do

  • The fortress villages of the Haute-Balagne perched high above the sea and surrounded by terraces that produced olives, wine and figs together with plentiful citrus groves are some of the most picturesque on the island.  Backed by the dramatic mountain landscapes, many of the villages are nearly a thousand years old.  A recent government redevelopment programme has encouraged young people to settle in the villages and preserve the traditional practices resulting in the Strada di L’Artigiani, the Artisans route; a craft trail where you can visit workshops and buy the wares of the local artists.
  • Calenzana is the start of the famous GR20.  There are two impressive churches, an atmospheric square with a bar and two restaurants, and if you wander through the back streets you will come across L’Atelier du Village where you can buy jams, biscuits, liqueurs and cakes made from local produce.
  • Zilia is a photogenic village surrounded by olive groves.  Visit the vineyard of Alzipratu and taste their celebrated wines.Perched on a rocky pinnacle overlooking the plain across to Calvi, Montemaggiore is characterized by fountains, arcaded houses and ancient streets.
  • Sant’Antonino, the oldest inhabited village on Corsica, is perched on a granite hilltop.  It is essentially pedestrian due to its vaulted archways and cobbled streets although the other way to explore the village is by mule - the traditional form of transport.  The village affords 360° views of the surrounding countryside and coast, has several restaurants, a local produce shop and the famous ‘maison du citron’ (run by Mr Antonino), which serves excellent citron pressé.
  • The centre of the project to redevelop village life. Pigna is a compact cluster of orange roofs and blue shutters and a good place to get a feel of the traditional culture of Corsica.  There are potters, painters, music box makers, musicians and jewellery craftsmen all based here.  The celebrated Casa Musicale is here and every Saturday and Tuesday during the season, Festivoce organize Corsican music concerts.  There is also the recently finished oratorium which hosts many of the Corsican musicians who tour the island during July and August.  The Casa Musical also has an excellent restaurant and there is also a wonderful little organic Tapas bar whose terrace has stunning views.
  • Monticello is the village where it is believed that Christopher Columbus' mysterious mother was born. The village has a couple of charming restaurants and sports facilities. Why not go pony trekking through the Balagne hills to discover the area’s true natural beauty.
  • Accessible from anywhere in La Balagne, the Tartagine Forest is a fantastic area of wild countryside in Corsica’s National Park region.  Escape to the mountains and sit by snow fed rivers rushing over granite boulders surrounded by pine trees.  Your route takes you through Speloncato, via the old chestnut woods of the Guinssani, where you can stop at the memorable Genoese church, and admire the panoramic view of the valley.   As the road is winding and narrow, the trip will take you longer than expected from the map, so either take a picnic (there are few other visitors) or visit one of the local Auberges in Olmi Cappella, Pioggiola or on the Col de Battaglia.
  • At the very end of the Calvi airport road the Bonifatu Forest is a haven of cool and shade during the heat of the summer.  There are a plethora of picnic spots, rock pools and walks of all levels.  For an easy two hour circuit try the Boucle de Figajola, or for a more strenuous climb hike up to one of the GR20 refuges at Carozzu (where there is also a fantastic mountain top rock pool).  During the season, the car park charges a flat fee for the whole day approx €2) which helps to finance the Office National des Forêts protection scheme.  The Maison Forestière, in the car park serves drinks and has a simple menu.
  • Scandola National Park is stacked slabs, towering pinnacles and gnarled, claw-like outcrops of rock  which were formed by volcanic eruptions 250 million years ago and subsequent erosion has fashioned spectacular shapes in the rock.  The colours are remarkable and vary from charcoal grey to incandescent reds and rusty purples which strike a vivid contrast with the deep green maquis and the cobalt blue sea. The headland and its surrounding waters were declared a nature reserve in 1975, so wildlife is as varied here as anywhere in Corsica.  Dolphins and seals thrive, and colonies of giant gulls and cormorants inhabit the cliffs.  Ospreys are found here, their huge nests visible from the sea and there are regular sightings of Peregrine falcons.  Rare indigenous plants grow freely, but as the entire reserve is off limits to hikers, flora spotters are deprived the chance to further investigate.
  • Le Parc de Saleccia is a must for garden lovers! The park has a wide range of Mediterranean plants and is great to explore.
  • Calvi to l’Ile Rousse and beyond by train is a fantastic train journey will take you along the beautiful coast to L’Ile Rousse and then head to the hills- the perfect option for beach hopping or for exploring! The line is payable in sections with stops at the beaches and villages of the coast including a station at Lumio / Calenzana near the Camp Raffalli as well as stations at Regino, Belgodere and all the way to Ponte Leccia.  This coastline is home to some of the best beaches on the island (see Beaches section) and can be explored by the small train. Beyond Ile Rousse, at the foot of the charming Reginu valley, is the beach of Lozari, a long curved bay with coarse sand, clean sea and very little development. Further still is the beach at Ostriconi - fine sand and totally unspoilt, but difficult to get to, necessitating quite a lengthy walk from the campsite to reach it.
 
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