The Castagniccia
The Castagniccia covers roughly 100km² extending from the River Golo in the north as far as the River Tavignano in the south and the central mountains to the west. It is famous for the herds of pigs that roam its lush countryside and takes its name from the dense forests of chestnut trees (castagna). Many of the beautiful grey-green and silver schist-roofed hamlets that are sprinkled on ridges in the area lie virtually abandoned or derelict these days but the region is an explorer's paradise, especially in autumn when the valleys are carpeted in gold and russet. Many of the inland villages boast views over the Tuscan islands to the Alpes on the mainland on clear days and it is well worth taking the car and meandering around the isolated hamlets. The villages are linked by dozens of footpaths (the old mule tracks), mostly well marked and signposted with wooden signposts, and keen walkers should not miss the hike up Mont San Pedrone, the highest peak of the Castagniccia.
Niolo & Aitone
Heading west from Corte through the Deux-Sorru and Deux-Sevi regions of the island, presents a rather challenging, but definitely rewarding, drive, along the D84 towards Calacuccia. The stretch from Castirla southwards follows the route of the 19th century road that clings to the side of the vertiginous ravine of the Golo River, threading through the Laricio Pine forest of the Valdo-Niellu. There is an excellent walk to the Lac di Ninu at the foot of Monte Tozzu and the Cascade Radule. The road then passes over the Col de Vergio, through the Forêt d'Aitone, in which there are thousands of Laricio Pines, some over 50m tall. The remoteness of this area of the island has helped preserve some of the rarest forms of wildlife, including wild boar, eagles, red kite, the Corsican nuthatch and the, rarely seen, Corsican savage cat, the Gjhattu Volpe. There are several walks marked from the road and numerous rock pools for bathing (look out for the signs for piscine naturelle).
Tartagine Forest
Accessible from anywhere in La Balagne, the Tartagine Forest is a fantastic area of wild countryside in Corsica's National Park region. Escape to the mountains and sit by snow fed rivers rushing over granite boulders surrounded by pine trees. Your route takes you through Speloncato, via the old chestnut woods of the Guinssani, where you can stop at the memorable Genoese church, and admire the panoramic view of the valley. As the road is winding and narrow, so the trip will take you longer than expected from the map, so either take a picnic (there are few other visitors) or visit one of the local Auberges in Olmi Cappella, Pioggiola or on the Col de Battaglia.
Restonica Valley
The Restonica Valley is probably one of the most beautiful and dramatic areas in Corsica, with its glacial gorges carved into the granite cliffs, which are covered in verdant pine forests. The valley takes its name from the Restonica River, which flows through the cliffs and gorges to the many pools and lakes, dotted around and about, making this a popular place to walk and picnic. The two most well known lakes Lac de Melo and the spectacular Lac de Capitello are accessible by foot via a rather strenuous and in some places steep path.
Aullene
Aullene is now a relatively remote village of the southern mountains among magnificent scenery. It has fewer than 200 permanent inhabitants today, but once it was a place of importance before any of the modern, faster roads by the coast were built, the only route from Ajaccio to Porto Vecchio went through here. Surrounded by chestnut and pine forests, it is a splendid centre for exploring the mountains.
Zonza
The village of Zonza is at a meeting point of mountain roads. With its old stone houses and narrow streets, it is a true mountain village. The surrounding countryside is diverse and fascinating; the majestic Col de Bavella, drawn and painted by Edward Lear and endlessly photographed since, is nearby. This area is particularly suitable for those who want to do some walking without being too ambitious, and many easier routes are waymarked.
Piana and The Calanches
The coast of the Gulf of Porto is one of Corsica's most famous landscapes. The pinnacles and ravines of the red granite Calanches soar out of beautiful blue seas framed by the jagged peaks of Paglia Orba. They are best explored by foot or by boat. There are daily boat trips from Porto that visit this UNESCO world heritage site. Porto is hidden at the end of the gulf, and although deprived of the best views, it is well placed for exploring and has plenty of amenities. The Route de la Marine, lined with stately old eucalyptus trees, links the two parts of the resort. A strip of supermarkets, cafés and hotels is at one end of the village but the focus of activity is in the marina. Amongst other amenities there is a well established aquarium and a helpful tourist office. Piana is balanced on plunging cliffs and despite its prime location overlooking the Calanches, it retains its sleepy feel and does not suffer the crowds of tourists. It comprises of a cluster of old stone houses arranged around an 18th century church and square, from the edge of which the views over the gulf are sublime.
Scandola
Stacked slabs, towering pinnacles and gnarled, claw-like outcrops of rock were formed by volcanic eruptions 250 million years ago and a subsequent erosion has fashioned spectacular shapes in the rock. The colours are remarkable and vary from charcoal grey to incandescent reds and rusty purples which strike a vivid contrast with the deep green maquis and the cobalt blue sea. The headland and its surrounding waters were declared a nature reserve in 1975, so wildlife is as varied here as anywhere in Corsica. Dolphins and seals thrive, and colonies of giant gulls and cormorants inhabit the cliffs. Ospreys are found here, their huge nests visible from the sea and there are regular sightings of Peregrine falcons. Rare indigenous plants grow freely, but as the entire reserve is off limits to hikers, flora spotters are deprived the chance to further investigate. Take the Columbo Line boat from Porto as daily scheduled trips visit the region. See the tourist office for details.
The Spelunca Gorges & Evisa
The Spelunca Gorge spans 2km between the villages of Ota and Evisa and is a formidable sight with its bare granite walls. 1000m high in places it plunges into the green torrent of the confluence of rivers Porto, Tavulella, Onca, Campi and Aitone. The most dramatic views are seen from the road but the valleys and riverbanks are best explored on foot. Evisa is set in lush chestnut forests on the eastern side of the gorge and due to its attraction for walkers has several lunch stops, ranging from modest pizzerias to gastronomic offerings.
Vico and The Gorges of Liamone
Vico is one of the remoter outposts of Corsica and crouches in the mountains 15km northeast of Sagone. To the north, Col de Sevi provides fine views across the mountains, or strike east and visit the thermal springs at Guagno-les-bains. The more adventurous can continue further along this way to the hamlets of Soccia and Orto perched on a ledge in front of the crags of Monte St Eliseo. From Vico, the D1 travels south following the Rivière Liamone for 7km. The Gorge is a gloriously remote landscape of sweeping valleys shrouded in chestnut trees and framed by shadowy ridges covered in patches of deep maquis. Wild pigs roam freely until the village of Arbori, an exquisite collection of russet buildings strung out on a ledge overhanging the valley. Don't miss the convent of St Francois, a great white building encircled by vivid green woods and gardens. Continue south and you arrive at the wine producing Cinarca region. Walkers should not miss the hike to the Lac de Creno.
Cargese and Gulf of Sagone
Cargese is at the northernmost tip of the bay and is a charming cliff top village with an unusual history and ancestry linked to the Greek Peloponnese. Even today there are both Catholic and Greek Orthodox churches although both are presided over by the same minister. The whole Gulf of Sagone (Corsica's largest gulf) is characterized by long curves of sandy beaches stretching 40km from Capo di Feno up to the Punto di Cargese. Sagone is further south and thrives as a watersports centre whilst Tiuccia is tucked into the Gulf of Liscia at the easternmost indent and has a trio of minor historic sights. Two 17th century Genoese watchtowers and the other, the ruined Castellu di Capraja. It is the most sheltered spot and has a fine golden beach.
