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Porto Pollo & Campomoro

 
 
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Beyond the headland of Capo di Muro lies the Bay of Valinco.  

The bay stretches along the rugged west coast with the sleepy, laid-back village of Porto Pollo at one end.  Porto Pollo is a small seaside village with a small beach and a dotting of eateries. It’s a pleasant place to stop if travelling en route along the coast or to use as a relaxed base close to the white sand beaches of the Valinco coast, all with clear waters superb for swimming and snorkelling. Surrounded by ancient roots this is close by the archaeological site of Filitosa, whose famous sculpted menhirs always have a few visitors.

At the opposite tip of the bay an old Genoese watchtower overlooks the pretty seaside village and golden sandy beach of Campomoro, beyond which lay ahead to the south one of the wildest coastlines in Corsica.

Things to see and do

  • Between the headlands of Capo di Muro and Campo Moro lies the Gulf of Valinco. The bay stretches along the rugged west coast from the sleepy, laid back village of Porto Pollo to Campomoro, interspersed with white sand beaches of varied shapes and sizes, all with clear waters superb for swimming and snorkelling. Campomoro is the site of the largest Genoese tower on Corsica and as a historic monument you can climb to the top and admire the panoramic views. This area has obvious ancient roots. Inland from the northern edge of the bay is the archaeological site of Filitosa, whose famous sculpted menhirs always have a few visitors. Other magnificent sites are more likely to be found by accident, so well are they hidden in the unique Corsican heathland, the maquis.
  • On the eastern side of the Valinco Gulf, Propriano is a working port town but the beaches are a good attraction - Plage du Lido and Plage du Corsaire - and sailing, diving and other watersports are popular here. Restaurants line the port and there is a great deal of choice and you can also take boat trips out into the Gulf from a number of operators along the harbourside. 
  • Situated with a grandstand view over Propriano, nearby Olmeto is a captivating village with an interesting past. What attracts visitors today is the view from the village's two main streets.
  • At the tip of the bay an old Genoese watchtower overlooks the pretty seaside village and golden sandy beach of Campomoro, beyond which lay ahead to the south one of the wildest coastlines in Corsica.
  • Sartene is said to be the most Corsican of Corsican towns is a brooding place of tall buildings and narrow, cobbled alleyways. Famous for its local wines you can experience the culture at first hand.
  • Ajaccio, Corsica's diminutive capital sparkles with Mediterranean buzz reminiscent of the Cote d'Azur and is the largest town on the island. His place of birth, Napoleon Bonaparte gave the town international fame and visitors cannot escape his commemorative presence throughout the town. It is an attractive town with an exceptionally mild climate and boasts a wealth of cafés, restaurants and chic shops. The old town is especially charming with a cluster of ancient streets spreading north and south of the Place Foch, which opens out onto the seafront by the old port. The Place de Gaulle forms the town centre. Following on from this is the Cours Napoleon, lined with chic boutiques and brasseries, and running parallel to the beach for almost 2km. There are plenty of places to visit including Napoleon's house (Maison Bonaparte), Musée Capitellu, the Citadel and Musée Fesch. There is also a local produce market held every morning Mon-Sat at Place Cesar-Campinchi providing an ideal scene to capture the essence of local life as you watch the world go by. The sea front promenade along the Route des Sanguinaires is a pleasant place to stroll and leads to some lovely beaches, the least crowded being the furthest along.The Nave Va company run boat trips from the old port near the Citadel out to these islands, as well as further afield (Bonifacio, Porto and the Calanches). Northwest of Ajaccio is the nearest of the Bonaparte family's country houses. Les Millelli is a stolid plain 18th century building with a wonderful terraced olive grove that overlooks the gulf (great for picnics). There are other châteaux ruins further along.
  • Heading south around the bay of Ajaccio you reach the town of Porticcio, a busy, lively resort with an abundance of shops including many small speciality shops selling locally produced pates, saucissons and cheeses. Porticcio has a large expanse of sandy beach with windsurfing, boat hire and a choice of other water sports and beach activities. As you turn a corner on the road South of Porticcio, the golden sands of the huge beach at Agosta Plage stretch ahead. Here it's quieter than Porticcio but with beach activities and good water sports due to the choppier waters in this bay. You can continue on this road to reach the Valinco through deserted maquis and truly magnificent unspoilt countryside.
  • Cargese is at the northernmost tip of the bay and is a charming cliff top village with an unusual history and ancestry linked to the Greek Peloponnese. Even today there are both Catholic and Greek Orthodox churches although both are presided over by the same minister. The whole Gulf of Sagone (Corsica's largest gulf) is characterized by long curves of sandy beaches stretching 40km from Capo di Feno up to the Punto di Cargese. Sagone is further south and thrives as a watersports centre whilst Tiuccia is tucked into the Gulf of Liscia at the easternmost indent and has a trio of minor historic sights. Two 17th century Genoese watchtowers and the other, the ruined Castellu di Capraja. It is the most sheltered spot and has a fine golden beach.
  • Wander the sheltered harbourside of Bonifacio Port and backed by cafe's and restaurants the white cliffs, take a trip from the port  around the Grottes et Falaises (caves and cliffs) or to the Iles de Lavezzis providing the opportunity to view the magnificent coastal rock formations from the sea. Why not take a trip to Sardinia for the day? Take the ferry across, market day at Santa Theresa di Gallura is Thursday.
  • Wander the citadel walls and ancient houses of Bonifacio Old Town Haute Ville, there is a petit train that will take the strain if you would prefer not to climb the steps. It is a real pleasure visiting the churches and ramparts with narrow streets full of shops and cafés. See the grain de sable, a massive chunk of limestone cliff that's fallen into the sea, which is the subject of thousands of postcards. You can see this by looking over the wall at the top of the hill in the old town. Witness superb views from the clifftop walk. Steps from the old town lead down to a tiny beach from where you can start the walk and visit the marine cemetery at the end – People often visit, as it's full of extraordinarily elaborate mausoleums.
  • Try a round of golf at the magnificent Spérone Golf Course. The 16th hole has a nautical challenge not to be missed and is surely a test for the best, but if you are looking for something a little more relaxing why not catch some sun on Petit Spérone beach (just after the 13th hole).
  • Drive inland more than 1200m up to the spectacular Col de Bavella, one of the most dramatic passes in Corsica with stunning views across extensive forest, ocean and mountains. Also visit the surrounding mountain villages in the area. Try canyoning or take a dip in a rock pool in the rivers of the Bavella massif. There are many walks through the forests to the hidden waterfalls of the Alta Rocca, including Piscia di Gallo, or Cockerall falls. A short drive inland from Porto Vecchio will bring you to the Ospedale forest, and some great spots for a picnic.
  • Most people love the sleepy little village of Ste Lucie de Tallano, with its grand old granite houses grouped around a picturesque square - la place du monument aux morts - looking over the valley of the Rizzanese River. From here it's only a short distance to the fabulous rock pools at Zoza. The sides of the river have flat rocks which are excellent for sunbathing, and the rock pools along the length of this stretch of the river provide tranquil and crystal-clear (if sometimes a little chilly) water in which to bathe.
  • The coast of the Gulf of Porto is one of Corsica's most famous landscapes. The pinnacles and ravines of the red granite Calanches soar out of beautiful blue seas framed by the jagged peaks of Paglia Orba. They are best explored by foot or by boat. There are daily boat trips from Porto that visit this UNESCO world heritage site. Porto is hidden at the end of the gulf, and although deprived of the best views, it is well placed for exploring and has plenty of amenities. The Route de la Marine, lined with stately old eucalyptus trees, links the two parts of the resort. A strip of supermarkets, cafés and hotels is at one end of the village but the focus of activity is in the marina. Amongst other amenities there is a well established aquarium and a helpful tourist office. Piana is balanced on plunging cliffs and despite its prime location overlooking the Calanches, it retains its sleepy feel and does not suffer the crowds of tourists. It comprises of a cluster of old stone houses arranged around an 18th century church and square, from the edge of which the views over the gulf are sublime.
  • Porto is tucked away at the end of the gulf, and although deprived of the best views across the bay, it is well placed for exploring and has plenty of amenities. The Route de la Marine, lined with stately old eucalyptus trees, links the two parts of the resort. A strip of supermarkets, cafés and hotels is at one end of the village but the focus of activity is in the marina. From here it is about a 15 minute walk up to the recently restored Geonese watchtower.
 
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